Whatever I do, I try to test it to ensure the planning is robust and anticipate problems so as to develop solutions. For this reason, I invited Miro to test out the guided tour I offer – I planned this as a budget tour where he can, in the future, plan to go on his own with help and with companions of his choice (as a university student). This is Miro’s account of his weekend break.
Miro
About a month ago, I was sat in my university library, writing my second research report in as many weeks, thinking ‘I need a holiday’! I run my own business as a Disability Equality Consultant, and as a result, spend much of my time travelling across the country, and sometimes, if I’m lucky, internationally, although it has been far too long since I have enjoyed anything that I could reasonably refer to as a ‘holiday’; the last time being a short break in London after my 17th birthday.
Imagine, then, how I was more than happy to take Eleanor up on her offer of a weekend break in Paris. Nevertheless, my immediate reaction, was soon replaced by more practical considerations; a different country, a different language, and an ignorance, on my part, of the daily issues faced by disabled Parisians. Ironically, my London break was at first conceived as a trip to the French capital, but, for those reasons stated above, I made the decision to travel somewhere a little more familiar.
Raising my concerns, Eleanor reassured me how, with her assistance, and that of her team, I would have no problems with the unfamiliar surroundings, the language barrier, or my status as wheelchair user. She explained that, with a little help, I could view Paris as a relaxing holiday destination, rather than a challenge, for someone with my impairment. I agreed, and with a fortnight of preparation, all covered by Eleanor, I was set for a new destination and an experience that I’ll never forget.
I use Personal Assistants every day. However, I tend to forego their use when in informal social settings, and, with this being considered a holiday, I decided to take a friend, rather than a PA, on the trip. Emma, a friend from university, accepted my invitation without hesitation – a weekend in one of the most cultured cities in mainland Europe, and a chance to try first hand some of the fine French cuisine that we have all heard so much about, not to mention the company of three tour guides; who wouldn’t want to go? Our Parisian adventure was set….
For ease of reading, I’ve subdivided my report into sections, foregoing a narrative approach, to ensure that the section most relevant to you is easily located. If you require more information, or have any queries, please don’t hesitate to get in contact.
Enjoy and au revoir,
Miro Griffiths
wheels_r_me@hotmail.com
Transport
Eurostar
Miro getting off Eurostar with ramp
I’m sure any wheelchair user, especially those who operate power wheelchairs, would no doubt agree with me in saying that airplanes are largely impractical. The likelihood of a wheelchair breaking in transit is eternally high, and, as a result, I do my best to avoid air travel, unless it proves the only realistic option. The easiest alternative to flight, is of course, in the case of Paris, the Eurostar.
Eleanor, to her credit, handled the travel arrangements, removing the hassle of booking tickets and assistance provision. It was simply left up to me to arrive on time, and, as a Eurostar passenger, disabled or non-disabled, check in closes thirty minutes before departure; an important consideration for those relying on long-distance transport routes to travel to the terminal.
Access on to the train is relatively simple, with the ramp divided into two sections to minimise the gradient. Onboard, the wheelchair space is located in Business Class, so expect a free meal during the journey, and a ticket at a shockingly low price! The companion seat is located parallel to the wheelchair space, and if the wheelchair proves too high for the tray table, there is an extendible alternative, which I was offered immediately after boarding.
Waiting time to board and alight the train at both Paris and London was minimal. At both stations the ramp was already trackside, and upon leaving the train, I waited until all passengers had disembarked, by which time the ramp was ready for use.
Buses
Bus ramp
Once in the city, Eleanor suggested that the bus provided the most accessible method of transport, since accessible taxis had to be ordered in advance, and are hired on a daily basis. In England, I have always perceived buses rather negatively, often avoiding them as a result of the attitudes of the drivers, or the overcrowding of non-disabled people into that section reserved for wheelchair users. However, I was pleasantly surprised at how easy Parisian buses were to use. Turning up at the bus stop, one of my three guides would signal to the driver that wheelchair users wished to board; at which point an automatic ramp was lowered from the middle door of the bus.
My re-evaluation of my relationship with the bus was to continue. Once on the bus, Eleanor and I moved to occupy the two designated wheelchair spaces, but at the next stop the bus slowed to reveal another wheelchair user waiting to board! Assuming there would be no room for her, I obviously felt a little guilty, but despite my expectations, the doors opened, and out came the ramp – she was getting on! I watched in amazement as two Parisians folded up their seats and moved from a newly created wheelchair space. There I was, sitting on a Paris bus with three wheelchairs on board! (Boris, these new buses in London will have to be superior to their French counterparts; take note – four spaces for wheelchairs). The spectacle was repeated later in the trip, where I watched the bus comfortably accommodate two wheelchairs and two prams in their own spaces!
I never paid for a ticket, nor was I asked to, and I remain unsure whether wheelchair users are exempt. All non-disabled group members were asked to pay, which suggests some form of concession, nevertheless, I suggest you carry money just to be safe.
Unfortunately, my revelatory experience with Parisian public transport was brought to an abrupt halt with the breaking of the ramp, and subsequent farcical behaviour of the driver in attempting to allow me to disembark. Said driver initially offered to lift the chair; however, with the design of my chair preventing it being carried under any circumstance, this was an option I had to refuse. The result of my, entirely justified, refusal, was a two hour bus ride around the same Paris route, waiting for a solution. In England, the procedure is to suspend service, and find a suitable method for disembarking such as a portable ramp; I found out first hand that Paris has no such legislation, and the depot manager instructed the driver to continue his route whilst he attempted to solve the problem. If it had not been for Eleanor, and the involvement of her contacts, who worked to pressure those involved from a legal perspective, I fear I would have been entirely helpless; I am truly grateful to Eleanor and her team for their help in this matter. Incidentally, after 2 hours, the situation was resolved with nothing more complex than a change of driver and the identification of a suitably high curb.
ramp-solution
It is not my intention here to create a negative image of French public transport as it relates to disability issues. Indeed, although the trip was slightly marred, bus use in general was fantastic. Eleanor, thankfully, rectified the situation very professionally, and I am aware that should a similar situation ever occur, I could contact Eleanor if need be.
Attitudes
Transport Staff
The Eurostar staff were exceptionally helpful. I didn’t request for assistance with luggage, although I may consider it in the future. I witnessed a member of staff assist a gentleman with his bags from the train platform all the way to the taxi rank, and, as I stated previously, onboard train staff offered the extendible tray as soon as I boarded, however it did take a few minutes to convince them, on both the outward and return journeys, that I didn’t require it.
Security at England appeared a little friendlier than its French counterpart; I was gently searched by English security, who were very considerate in their approach, particularly when moving my arms. The same cannot be said for the French authorities. In hindsight, I feel that, had I requested they be slightly more gentle, there would have been no issue. Perhaps I was a little grumpy because the officer didn’t tuck my scarf back into my coat.
Bus drivers, with one exception, were friendly and helpful, and were concerned to know at which stop I intended to disembark. With reference to that individual incapable of dealing sensibly, or maturely, with the broken ramp, I thoroughly believe that the presence of a coherent procedure relating to such problems within the French Transport System would have allowed him the space to act efficiently and professionally, rather than being more concerned with disciplinary action from his superiors if he broke the route to help.
Shop/Bar/Restaurant Staff
Always friendly, helpful and considerate; I met no-one whom I would consider rude or unhelpful. The vast majority approached to ask if I required help, and if they were not English speakers, would always take the initiative to find a member of their own staff who was. Similar consideration was shown with access issues, particularly in restaurants, where tables were always hastily rearranged if they were in any way obstructive.
Local Parisians
Friendly Parisian bar
Prior to travel, I had spoken to a number of people who assured me that native Parisians were nothing less than rude, obnoxious and inconsiderate. This, however, did not prove to be my experience. It’s true, I believe, that city dwellers, by nature of their situation, or lifestyle, struggle to embrace friendship and familiarity. In Paris, however, strangers always appeared helpful at just the right time.
Emma, as an objective observer, noted how Parisians approached a disabled person in the same manner as anyone else, without patronisation. A few people stared at me, but I had the impression that they were focused on the chair itself, and not me as its user. I was also surprised that Parisians engaged with the disabled individual first, and the friend or PA second, since the opposite is most usually the case in England!
Accessibility
On the streets
The majority of pavements were provisioned with a drop-down curb. In those instances where they were not immediately accessible, I tended to be, as a rule, no more than 20 yards from an alternative accessible crossing point. In my opinion, those curbs that had been lowered were of very poor quality; a majority appeared to be misaligned with the road surface, and provided the user with a small hump of approximately 2-3inches. The gradient of the dropped curb slopes varied, and, while none would have caused a wheelchair to slide, the aforementioned hump could prove potentially damaging to the front of a chair, or drown the wheels when rainwater collects.
In general, pavements appeared flat, and more than wide enough to navigate, except where high volume of people on the street demanded we move in single file. When crossing the road, lights were on timers, and so did not require me to reach out to press the button, something I found extremely useful given the nature of my condition. A number of streets were cobbled, though the majority were so close-set that the impact on my wheelchair, and my back, was ultimately minimal
General shops/bars/restaurants
A lot of venues had single, small steps easily traversable by wheelchairs with curb-raisers; a little more of a challenge for users of rear-wheel drive, like myself, but nevertheless, manageable in most instances. When steps appeared too high, a ramped entrance was often available. Manoeuvrability inside venues tended to be easy, with plenty of space between points of interest.
Hotel – Ibis Paris Gare du Nord Chateau Landon 10ème
hoist
We stayed in the somewhat basic, but centrally located, Ibis, about a five minute walk from Gare du Nord (Eurostar terminal train station). It met my requirements to a suitable standard; the wheelchair-accessible room contained a double bed, with a walk-in-shower, with no threshold steps to overcome. Manoeuvrability within the room was fairly restricted, but not to such a degree that it was problematic.
The bed was low, with enough room underneath it to accommodate the base of a portable hoist. The single issue raised was the non-negotiable choice of a double-room; the hotel offered only a double bed, which dictates that, if you require assistance during the night, you should be prepared to share the mattress with your PA.
It is also of note, that the room generated a build up of static electricity in my power wheelchair, which had the potential to offer a mild shock to my PA upon contact. This is, ultimately, more annoying than dangerous, but is worth bearing in mind.
The hotel lifts were adequate enough in their dimensions to accommodate a wheelchair, a non-disabled person and one bag. My one major criticism of the hotel, however, concerns its restaurant, where the two steps at its entrance dictated that I leave the building and travel 20 yards further up the street was situated up the street in order to gain access via the side entrance. A situation that is certainly far from ideal.
Pompidou Centre
On day one of the trip, we travelled to the Pompidou Centre, approximately a 10 minute bus ride from the hotel. The centre was very spacious, with a broad selection of visitor attractions. Taking the lift, we travelled to the top of the building, and were able to experience a fabulous view of the beautiful Paris skyline. We also paid a visit to the Kandinsky Exhibition, which was free to wheelchair users and one companion. Everything within the Centre was on flat surface.
Outside the centre, a slight incline led you back onto the main path, but nothing that should prove problematic. The atmosphere outside was lively, with public displays of street art and performance.
Les Halles
Les Halles is a shopping mall situated approximately 10 minute on foot from the Pompidou Centre. The mall was organised over a number of floors, with a variety of recognisable high-street brands, a majority, unfortunately, with a high-stepped entrance. It was quite compact and Friday evening appeared extremely busy. Some of the surface terrain was highly uneven, and I could only find two accessible lifts, both next to each other, and both quite small.
Outside Les Halles there were many more shops, and, although some had high steps, many provided portable ramps upon request.
Au Pied du Cochon
Restaurant Au Pied de Cochon
At Eleanor’s recommendation, our first evening meal in the city was enjoyed here. The restaurant was impressively decorated, with a stylish mahogany and maroon theme continued throughout the building. Manoeuvrability within the venue was easy; access was provided by a small ramped ledge at the front of the establishment, leading through two large doors, wide enough for two power wheelchairs to enter simultaneously. At the time of writing (April 2009), an accessible toilet was under construction on the 3rd floor, which would eventually be lift-accessible.
The Louvre
This was easily, in my opinion, the most impressive and accessible building visited during my stay; extremely spacious, with flat surfaces throughout, and a lift which is truly amazing to both watch and ride. To its credit, wheelchair users are allowed to bypass the main queue and enter for free with one companion. Travelling around the Louvre is quite time-consuming, and multiple lift journeys are often required to reach your desired destination. At all times, staff at the Louvre were friendly, and more than happy to assist with manoeuvring past hundreds of tourists.
Galleries Lafayette
This shopping centre is aimed at the upmarket, and as a result is quite expensive. In layout, it resembles Macy’s of New York, and echoes the decor of Harrods in London. It consists largely of open spaces with flat surfaces, and employs staff who proved extremely friendly (more so, I suspect, as a result of wanting a sale than from their altruism). The lifts are quite small compared to the size of the building, and, as at Les Halles, I could only find two. Indeed, one staircase lift appeared to break when I was there.
Notre Dame
We visited the cathedral at Notre Dame on the final day of the trip. The surrounding area was cobbled, but travelling at low speed minimises any discomfort. Wheelchair access was through the exit door, since the main entrance is, of course, stepped. In my experience, this may require a non-wheelchair user to stop the traffic of people leaving through the exit, to facilitate entrance.
Inside, wheelchair users can move about through only half of the building, since the remaining half is raised up at the height of step. The pews, however, Are accessible, and on a level surface.
Seine River through to the Latin Quarter
The river, situated just outside Notre Dame, is a scenic and relaxing observation point. Pavements surround the embankment, so travel alongside the river is not a problem. Eleanor informed us of a wheelchair-accessible riverboat tour; however, the ramp onto the boat is quite steep, so consider this in your plans.
Latin Quarter
The Latin Quarter is made up of narrow streets, packed full of small shops and restaurants; many inaccessible as a result of high-stepped entrances. The atmosphere is, as expected, vibrant and it proved to be full of people even on a Sunday afternoon.
Pavements, as a result, became crowded, and in the event it proved easier to navigate by driving on the road.
Be aware that the occasional car will also be using the road, but the area remains something of an unofficial pedestrianised zone.
Eleanor’s involvement
My thanks are extended to Eleanor, without whom the trip would have been difficult to organise, and perhaps, would never have happened at all. For a disabled person, the key to success when travelling is advance planning; however, this is often easier said than done, particularly in the context of a foreign country. Eleanor demonstrated how, with careful planning, a trip such as this could prove extremely enjoyable. Having Eleanor there certainly enhanced my experience, and provided a welcome sense of calm, as I felt extremely at ease in the company of someone so familiar to the surroundings, and capable of dealing with any problems that could arise.
Eleanor and team
Eleanor was extremely professional and proved to be a mine of useful information, as well as maintaining a respect for my own need for privacy. Her aim was to convince me that Paris was an accessible and enjoyable place to experience for someone with my impairment; she was determined to provide an experience which prepared me to consider how I might undertake a similar trip independently of a tour guide, and in this she proved entirely successful. I thoroughly enjoyed Paris, and have decided to go back in July with a group of friends, and although Eleanor won’t be there as a tour guide, I would definitely welcome her guidance at the planning stage.
